Which concrete anchor should I use?
Pick your wall material and how heavy the load is, and get the right concrete anchor type — with why it fits and a link to its exact bit size. The one rule to remember: wedge anchors are for solid concrete only, never brick or block.
What are you drilling into?
…and how heavy is the load?
Use this anchor
Gear for this job
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Wall material decides first
The single most important rule: a wedge anchor is for solid poured concrete only. It expands at the bottom of the hole and needs solid material to grip — in brick or concrete block that force splits the masonry, or the anchor spins uselessly in a hidden cavity. So on brick and block, reach for a sleeve anchor (it grips along its whole length, in solid and hollow material) or a Tapcon concrete screw. Wedge and drop-in anchors stay in solid concrete.
Not sure whether your wall is solid or hollow? Drill a small test hole first — solid brick and core-filled block look identical to hollow ones from the outside, and the dust and the way the bit bites will tell you. When in doubt, a sleeve anchor or a Tapcon is the safe choice, because both hold in solid and hollow material. (Hanging on plasterboard, not masonry? That’s a drywall anchor, a different job.)
The four concrete anchors, compared
Tapcon (concrete screw) · A removable concrete screw with no expansion force — the easiest option, closest to edges, and it holds in concrete, brick and block. Bit is UNDERSIZED vs the screw.
Sleeve anchor · The versatile masonry anchor — it grips in solid AND hollow material, so it's the safe pick for brick and block where a wedge would split them. 1:1 — bit = anchor diameter.
Wedge anchor · The highest-strength anchor for solid concrete — its concentrated expansion gives the best pull-out, but that same force splits brick and block, so it's concrete-only and permanent. 1:1 — bit = anchor diameter.
Drop-in anchor · Flush-set with a female thread — the bolt can be removed and reinserted while the anchor stays put. For solid concrete, where you want a clean, removable-bolt fixture. Bit is OVERSIZED — match the shield.
Then it’s the load: light work (trim, furring, light fixtures) → a Tapcon; medium (handrails, brackets, boxes) → a sleeve anchor or a larger Tapcon; heavy in solid concrete (ledgers, plates, racking) → a wedge, or a drop-in where you want a flush, removable bolt.
Concrete anchors compared
Download PDFConcrete anchor comparison chart
| Anchor | Strength | Wall materials | Removable? | Drill-bit rule |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tapcon (concrete screw) | Light–medium | Concrete, brick, block | Yes — unscrews | Bit is UNDERSIZED vs the screw |
| Sleeve anchor | Medium | Concrete, brick, block, stone | Partly | 1:1 — bit = anchor diameter |
| Wedge anchor | Highest | Solid concrete ONLY | No — permanent | 1:1 — bit = anchor diameter |
| Drop-in anchor | Medium–heavy | Solid concrete | Bolt removable, anchor stays | Bit is OVERSIZED — match the shield |
Wall material decides first: wedge anchors are for solid concrete only — in brick or block they split the masonry, so use a sleeve or a Tapcon there. Then pick by load. Each anchor name links to its exact drill-bit size. Bit rules are the convention — always check the anchor packaging; structural or code work follows engineered specs.
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Common questions
What anchor should I use for brick?
For brick, use a sleeve anchor or a Tapcon concrete screw — not a wedge anchor. A wedge expands at the bottom of the hole and needs solid material to grip; in brick (especially cored or hollow brick) that concentrated force splits the masonry. A sleeve anchor spreads its expansion along the hole so it holds in brick and block, and a Tapcon simply threads in with no expansion force — the easiest option for lighter loads. Drill into the brick itself, not the mortar joint, and if you're not sure the brick is solid, drill a test hole first.
Wedge vs sleeve anchor — which for concrete block?
Use a sleeve anchor in concrete block (CMU), not a wedge. Block is often hollow or thin-webbed, and a wedge anchor's high expansion force cracks it or finds a cavity and spins uselessly. A sleeve anchor distributes its force along the sleeve, so it grips in the block's solid webs and in brick. Reserve wedge anchors for solid poured concrete, where their concentrated expansion gives the highest pull-out. For a heavy load in block, spread it across more anchors or through-bolt — brittle, hollow masonry limits how much any single anchor can hold.
What's the strongest concrete anchor?
In solid concrete, the wedge anchor has the highest pull-out strength — its expansion clip grips hard against solid material, which is why it's used for structural plates, ledgers and racking. But strongest only applies in solid concrete: a wedge is permanent and splits brick or block, so it's the wrong choice there. For heavy loads in brittle or hollow masonry, no expansion anchor is truly strong — spread the load, through-bolt, or get engineered specs. For anything load-bearing or safety-critical, follow the manufacturer's data and consult a structural engineer.
Can I use a wedge anchor in brick?
No. Wedge anchors are for solid poured concrete only. The wedge expands at the tip against solid material, and in brick — particularly cored or hollow brick — that force splits the brick or the anchor spins in a void and never grips. Use a sleeve anchor (it works in brick, block and concrete) or a Tapcon concrete screw for brick instead. This is the single most important rule when choosing a masonry anchor.
Which concrete anchor is removable?
The Tapcon concrete screw is the most removable — it simply unscrews like a wood screw and leaves a clean hole, so it's the pick when you may take the fixture down. A drop-in anchor is partly removable: the anchor body is permanent, but its female thread lets you remove and reinsert the bolt (handy for fixtures you service or swap). Sleeve anchors are only partly removable (the nut and bolt come off, the sleeve usually stays), and wedge anchors are permanent — they can't be backed out, only cut flush or driven deeper. Match removability to whether the fixture is temporary.
Where this comes from
The material-and-load logic here is cross-referenced across anchor-manufacturer selection guides and masonry-fastening references, which agree on the essentials: match the anchor to the base material first (wedge = solid concrete only), then to the load. It stays in the DIY light-to-medium lane. Chemical/epoxy anchors, and any structural, seismic, edge-distance or torque-critical anchoring, are engineering decisions — follow the anchor manufacturer’s published data and consult a structural engineer. This page helps you choose the type; each anchor’s own page has its exact bit size.
This is a DIY decision guide for light-to-medium concrete-anchor work. Anchor ratings, spacing and edge distances vary by product, diameter and concrete strength — follow the size and limits printed on the packaging. For structural, heavy, seismic or code-governed work, and for chemical/epoxy anchors, follow the manufacturer's engineered data and consult a structural engineer.